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Summary

The indesit k 1g21 is extremely cheap. It looks nice enough, and is easy to use. However, as with all the budget washing machines, it’s cheapness is a double edged sword which could severely cut short its potential longevity.

My experience is that few people are prepared to pay out to repair cheap washing machines if they develop a fault after a few years. Even a straight forward repair could cost nearly half what you paid for it (unless you know a reputable local repairman) and a more serious repair can cost little less than a new one.

However, if you don’t want to invest in a quality washing machine, you can still get good value for money from something like an Indesit W103 if you are lucky and you don’t over work it.

As with most things in life it depends how you look at them. If the Indesit W103 lasted 3 years without breaking down, then it works out at just ?66 a year. Even 2 years would only be ?2 a week, and if it lasted 7 years it’s a mere ?28.42 a year. So the odds are you could get enough washing out of it for your money. It’s just that they aren’t very sophisticated, quiet, or maybe even as economical and efficient as one similarly specified but twice the price. Don’t forget also that these days, people are far more conscious of the environmental damage washing machines cause by not lasting a reasonable length of time. Millions are dumped each year into landfill.

Latest info:

This model is apparently discontinued but there are still plenty of similar models around – find Indesit washing machines (search Washerhelp’s affiliates)

Main review

Indesit washing machines have long been one of the cheapest washing machines available in the UK. I’ve always felt they were reasonable value for money but are they still? The one I’ve inspected cost just ?199. The cheapest online price I can see is currently ?175.

Make no mistake, this is the budget end of the washing machines so don’t expect top quality. However, you could buy 3 of these washing machines for the same money as one Dyson CR01 washing machine (Dyson’s basic model) and still have ?100 left over. Or you could buy 2 Indesit W103 washing machines for the same money as a basic Miele W864 washing machine with about ?50 left over.

So the question is, are you better off just buying a cheap washing machine like the Indesit W103 or should you pay two or three times as much for a quality one?

First impressions

The Indesit W103 washing machine is a nice looking but basic no-frills washing machine. You get simple controls and just two option buttons, anti-crease and economy. The plastic door seems surprisingly solid but the soap dispenser is flimsy and very small.

Unpacking the W103

The first thing I noticed was a leaflet stating that the power supply cable must only be replaced by an authorized service engineer. I’ve never come across this before, and inspecting where the mains cable enters the washing machine I could see that it goes directly into the mains filter suppressor so you wouldn’t be able to replace just the mains cable. I find this highly unusual and can only imagine that it’s cheaper to source the mains cable and suppressor combined. That’s fine, but having to call out an engineer who will need to replace the cable and suppressor just for a damaged mains cable is going to be expensive.

To be fair, it’s unlikely you will ever need to replace a mains cable, but this highlights a problem with buying very cheap washing machines. To call an Indesit engineer out, if you damaged the mains cable, would currently cost approximately ?89 plus the cost of the mains cable & suppressor (?30?) which will be over half the purchasing price of the machine. Imagine the cost if the motor, programmer or drum needed replacing.

If you are interested in the pros and cons of cheap washing machines verses quality washing machines you might want to read Buying a new washing machine advice

Instruction book

I initially thought the installation instructions were missing until I found them (bizarrely) on page 10. Puzzlingly, the instruction book shows you how to use the washing machine before telling you how to unpack and install it.

The instruction book stated that you need to connect the hot water fill hose to the water valve marked with a H, and the cold hose to the water valve marked with a C, however there were no such markings on the W103 at all. The only way I could see which water valve was which, was because the filter inside one of the valves was red. This could be very confusing for a customer. Other than this, the installation was straight forward.

A swimming pool at home adds to it a touch of class and a whole lot of convenience. You do not need to go to crowded public swimming pools to cool off in the scorching summers or to give yourself a good workout. Having a swimming pool sounds cool but maintaining it involves time and money. Swimming pool sanitation is a major issue for swimming pool owners to maintain acceptable quality of water. Proper sanitization is required to prevent transmission of infectious diseases and maintain the visual clarity of water. A dirty swimming pool is not a very pleasing sight. Swimming pool cleaners are just the tool you need to maintain a clean and healthy pool.

There are three types of swimming pool cleanersbased on the mechanism of cleaning they involve. They cater to the varying needs and budgets of pool owners.

Suction pool cleaners: Perhaps the most popular and economical type of cleaners. The mechanism of cleaning involves a hose that is attached to a skimmer or side port in the pool. Suction is generated in the hose from the pool pump. The cleaner collects and puts debris in the pool filter by moving around the pool in random patterns. Though it does not work well in getting rid of leaves, it is easy to maintain and install. The suction is dependant on the pressure from the filter as it comes between the cleaner and the pump, so the filter must be kept clean at all times.
Pressure poolcleaners: They are expensive but work more efficiently. With its own filter bag it avoids clogging the pool filter. The hose from the cleaner is connected to the pool return, which is the place where water flows from the pool filter into the pool. The cleaner works with the help of an additional pump connected through another pipe which forces water pressure to the cleaner. The two way water pressure works to create a vacuum and propels the cleaner around the pool. Dirt and debris are thus collected in the cleaner’s internal filter. It also distributes filtered water in the pool. Pressure cleaners are more difficult to install as it has a lot of attachments.
Automatic, or robotic, poolcleaners: The most efficient and expensive type of pool cleaner, they are a totally stand-alone cleaning system. They need their own power source provided from power sockets at home. They have their own filtration unit and don’t attach to the pool filter or pump in any away. They are portable and run on timers or have remote controls. They are thrown into the pool whenever cleaning is required and taken out as soon as it’s done.

To know more about pool cleaners, check out www.poolsupplyforless.com.You will find reliable information on all kinds of swimming pool cleaners here.

The first decision you need to make is where you are going to install the shower. Are you going to save space and use your bath as a shower or will you have a separate unit? If you do wish to use your bath, there are several bath products designed specifically for the purpose. See our section on combination baths.

 

If you would like to install a separate shower unit without the need for doubling it up with the bath, there are several design considerations to make regarding its location and construction.

 

A complete shower unit may be purchased which includes all the necessary components. The shower, shower tray and walls of the cubicle are all pre-made and require only assembly and installation. Obviously, this set up is also relatively expensive.

 

Alternatively, you could build in a cubicle making use of the walls of the room and/or additional stud walls constructed to suit. This method is more labour intensive but can represent a considerable cost saving. It also has the advantage that it may be built to suit your requirements more exactly.

 

Building a shower cubicle

 

There are many possibilities for shower construction depending on the space available, the budget for the project and the taste of the user. The shower may be built against one wall and stud walls constructed on one or two of the sides. The shower could make use of the corner walls of the room. There is also the option of building a shower as an integral part of a cupboard arrangement. The ‘open’ side or sides may then have a screen or curtain installed. Access to the shower may be from one side or the corner of two sides.

 

Consideration at the design stage should also be given to the plumbing. It always looks far neater and professional if all the pipework is hidden from view. This can be achieved either by routing the pipes through the rear wall of the shower if this is possible, or by building a false wall in front of all the pipework.

 

Drainage from the shower tray can be a little problematical as the need for a ‘fall’ in the waste pipe can be difficult to achieve. The fact that the base of the shower is at floor level means that the waste will need to drop below it. If the joists supporting the floor run in the same direction as the waste pipe, there may be room to fit the waste within the floor depth. However, you’ve probably just discovered that yours run the other way. The way round this is to raise the base of the shower to provide the necessary slope of 6mm per 300mm length of waste pipe. A quick calculation will show you that the additional height of the base will not present too much of a problem. (a 3m run of waste will require the base to be lifted by 60mm). Some of the better shower trays come with an adjustable base height or optional plinths.

 

The tray is fitted with a shallow trap to minimise the under tray space requirements, but not if the waste is connected directly to the main stack via a strap boss. In this case it is required to be a deep trap.

 

Stud walls may be constructed to suit your design. The face of the walls should be made of marine grade plywood since the area will be subjected to considerable moisture. This is screwed and glued to a frame of suitably spaced and strengthened timber studwork.

 

Remember to seal all the angles between walls and the edges of the shower tray with mastic, so that there is no possibility of water percolating through.

 

The false wall referred to earlier is built on the same principles. It will accommodate the pipework between the timber uprights and also provide support for fixing the shower controls and adjustable rail for the shower head.

 

The surface of these walls should be sealed and may then be clad with ceramic tiles using a waterproof adhesive.

 

Choosing a shower enclosure

 

Shower enclosures come in several forms either filling one side of a recess as described above, two sides of a corner installed shower, or all three sides of a free-standing shower enclosure. Most enclosures are sold without a tray although there are complete products available such as Matki. All Matki shower enclosures include their matching shower tray.

 

Currently fashionable, frameless shower enclosures enable easy cleaning as the glass has no frame and therefore fewer gaps for dirt and limescale build up. Frameless shower enclosures are also known as ‘Minimalist enclosures’. Ranges including frameless enclosures include Matki and Gal.

 

Many shower enclosures are slightly adjustable to allow for fitting in irregular positions. When choosing a shower enclosure for a room with a low ceiling you should be sure to account for the additional height of the shower tray.

 

Choosing a shower tray

 

Shower trays are available in steel and stone/resin construction. Steel trays, as well as being more durable and less prone to cracks and chips, are generally lower profile allowing assembly in rooms with lower ceilings. They also tend to be more expensive than their stone/resin equivalents. Kaldewei produce quality steel shower trays while we recommend MX trays in the stone/resin category.

 

Types of shower

 

In order to select the most suitable and economical type of shower it is important to recognise certain factors that can determine which shower is best for you. A mixer for example, would be the best choice in a household where both hot and cold water are supplied at equal pressure from the main storage system.

 

Most modern showers are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains). It is important to note whether or not the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler.

 

Such systems would include those of hot water being supplied from the mains via either a multipoint or combination boiler. To ensure the shower is adaptable to such conditions, it may be worth checking installation requirements with the manufacturer or to have it fitted by a registered plumber.

 

Bath/shower mixer:

 

Here, the hose and spray of the shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and once again, the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. Bath shower mixers can be wall mounted (for un-drilled baths) or deck mounted (plumbed into holes in the bath). Some baths come with tap holes and some without. Many plumbers are able to drill tap holes but you should check with your plumber to be safe. All of our tap ranges include wall and deck mounted options.

 

Pros

Relatively cheap and no extra plumbing is involved.

 

Cons

Temperature control is low which can prove to inconvenient and it is fiddly to adjust.

 

Manual mixer:

 

The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive manual mixer showers). We recommend Kusasi manual shower valves.

 

Pros

The wall unit is usually fixed at chest height; this makes temperature adjustment much more convenient.

 

Cons

More expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. Also, the hot and cold water supply pipes will need to be plumbed in.

 

Thermostatic mixer:

 

The hose and spray of the shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. It is complete with a built in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. For examples of thermostatic shower valves see this link.

 

Pros

The controlled temperature makes it extremely convenient. Also the thermostat means that the temperature and flow of water should not be affected when water is being used elsewhere in the house.

 

Cons

It is the most expensive of the different mixer options.

 

Power shower:

 

A single mixer unit containing an electric pump which is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted provided that there is a water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder.

 

Pros

Both the pressure and temperature of the water are easily adjusted making it convenient to use.

 

Cons

It is not suitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure. Also, the removal of waste water can be slow if the waste pipe is not big enough. It is best to use a 50mm (2in) waste pipe if possible.

 

Electric shower:

 

A wall unit which is plumbed into a mains cold water supply only. The water is heated as it passes through the unit. It is important to note that for this type of shower to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted as appropriate via a knob without the use of an additional pump.

 

Pros

Some models have a stabiliser for the temperature so that the water supply remains unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. It can also ensure that the water supply does not run too hot or cold.

 

Cons

Because the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure, the spray is often weak in the winter when the mains water is colder. This problem is combated in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting. The unit must be wired to an electric power supply according to Electricity Board requirements.

 

Installing the shower

 

The following is a step by step guide to the shower installation process.

 

1. Using the instruction guide that should have been provided fit the shower control.

 

2. Before fitting the pipes that will eventually supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and isolating valves should be fitted. The pipes can then be recessed into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

 

3. Fit the shower tray, shower head, and fittings.

 

4. Connect up the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water. (This may require a female screw thread adapter).

 

5. Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.

 

6. If it is an electrical shower that is being installed, the electricity supply must be switched off, before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.

 

7. The shower should now be ready for the screens and cubicle tray to be fitted.

 

By following the above guidelines you should find that you are able to install any of the latest showers and accessories within the bathroom

 

So you find yourself in the middle of the worst drought within living memory and your garden occupants are starting to sag, flag and wilt. Which plants should be watered first and which plants should receive the main quantities of the irrigation? You begin to feel like the leader of a third world country trying to spread your counties meagre budget across healthcare, military and education. Never fear, let me dampen your worries with some drought advice.

First to receive the H2O

Recent plantings are top of the list for regular watering, if water is available. New plantings such as bare-root trees or shrubs planted the previous autumn / winter, with newly planted perennials also at great risk from drought damage. You see these new plantings have not had much time to produce water-seeking roots, the type of roots that travel deep and wide for moisture. Because of this, we must supplement the plants natural water supply. During a hosepipe ban, recent plantings of annual bedding summer bedding such as marigolds, impatiens, Nicotiana etc should be regarded as probable casualties of the water war. If I had a limited supply of water to divide between a Japanese maple and some annual bedding, I am afraid the maple would receive the lions share and to hell with the bedding. As a rule of thumb, if the soil 5cm (2 inches) below the grounds surface is dry, then it is time to water. The following is short list of plants can cope with a short period of drought, once established… Brachyglottis, Corokia, Gleditsia, Halimiocistus, and Hippophae.

Container plants during a drought

Next on the water-receiving list are containerised plants, hanging baskets and window boxes. Essentially a containerised plant is growing above the ground water table, with just the soil inside the container to provide the required moisture. If the moisture is not inside the container, then I am afraid the roots have nowhere else to go to quench the plants thirst. Again, if the compost 5cm (2 inches) below the pots surface is dry, then it is time to water, it is up to the gardener to provide that water when required. Try to provide a catch plate or tray beneath containers, these “catchers” will contain any excess water that will eventually be absorbed in the compost. Be aware that terracotta and other porous container materials absorb a good quantity of water that the plant is then unable to access. The following is a short list of container bedding plants that can cope with a short period of drought, once established… Arctotis, Lantana, Plectranthus, Portulaca and Zinnia

Vegetables and fruit during a dry spell

Provide adequate quantities of water for moisture-hungry vegetables such a tomatoes, peas, onions, cucumbers, marrows and lettuce. Insufficient supplies of water will lead to miniature, shrivelled and limp specimens. Fruiting plants such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, apple and pear trees are also very moisture hungry especially while their fruit is forming. Notice how much water is within a strawberry or pear the next time you eat one of these delights. Water-content figures of 70 to 90% are quoted for fruits and vegetables, regardless of whichever quantity is correct, you must supply that water during a drought. Plants growing in an exposed or wind swept area will require a fair quantity of supplementary water during a drought. Have you ever gone for a bracing walk on a windy day, upon arriving home, you smile at your spouse, children or pet and realise that your lips are cracked and chapped, ouch! This illustrates the severe drying element of a strong breeze, plants leaves are constantly being dried out and then remoistened by water from the soil when available. During a drought, if that water is not present the leaves will dry up, shrivel and shed. This is known as the desiccation of foliage. Watering deeply will prevent this happening.

Shallow rooters and moisture lovers

Shrubs and trees that are shallow rooted or have a particular liking for moist soils are quite at risk during a drought period. The shallow rooted specimens include Rhododendron, Azalea, Heather (Erica), Hydrangea and Birch (Betula). The moisture lovers include Hosta, Ferns, Helleborus, Sarcococca, Fatsia and Camellia. If water is available, please allocate some to these plants. Climbers or wall-shrubs planted close to house walls will struggle for moisture at the best of times, due mainly to the rain-shadow cast by the house itself. Do not forget to water these wall huggers. The following is a short list of climbers that can cope with a short period of drought, once established… Clematis Montana, Fallopia, Jasminum, Trachelospermum and Vitis.

Lawns during a hosepipe ban

During a drought, the first part of the garden that people tend to water is the lawn. This is probably because lawns usually make up quite a quantity of most gardens and these lawns tend to look burnt earlier than many plants. However, the lawn would be the last form of plant life within my garden that would receive any rationed water. Lawns are more resilient than you may think, a green lawn that becomes browned off due to water shortage will eventually return after a few heavy rain showers. The burnt piece is the foliage above ground; the roots below ground will sit tight and wait the dry spell out. Of course, lawns comprised totally of fine grass will be damaged significantly by prolonged dry weather, but you should have no worries if your lawn is sown with a utility seed mix (No. 2 or Manhattan mix).

How to apply water during a drought (if water is available)

I find sprinklers are quite wasteful of the available albeit rationed water, instead I would choose either hand watering or seep watering. With hand watering you direct your watering can or hose to the base of your chosen plant, water deeply at a rate of approx 10 litres per metre squared. Watering lightly will do more harm than good as it encourages surface rooting, which is easily damaged. On many dry soils, water applied directly will tend to run off over the soils surface and away from the plants base, if this happens try the following trick. Sink a two-litre pot filled with gravel at the base of the plant, water slowly into this pot and you will have no run off problems. Seep watering, also known as drip irrigation is an effective and economical way to apply much needed moisture directly. Most well stocked garden centres will sell seep hose or porous pipe, which you will weave between plants within your beds and borders. This seep hose when connected to a water supply will slowly ooze water through small holes along the length of the pipe. It is extremely direct and efficient.

Steam cleaners are devices that clean exteriors with the aid of steam or hot water. They are best suited to destroy allergens, dust mites, bacteria, mold and fungus that are present on the exterior to be cleaned. They can be made use of to clean any kind of surfaces including floors, curtains, furniture and any other heat proof exteriors.

Steam-cleaners are mainly of two kinds namely the conventional cleaner and vapor cleaners. The conventional steam cleaner comprises of a boiler, a collecting tank, a hose and cleaning brushes. The surface is cleaned by spraying hot water under pressure. Most conventional cleaners make use of cleaning agents to get the surface cleaned while some others just use steam and brushed to clean the area. Conventional cleaners can be used only on floors.

The vapor cleaner comprises of a water container with a heater attached, a hose and a nozzle. Boiled water under pressure produces highly heated steam or dry steam that is transmitted to the surface that is to be cleaned through a hose and nozzle. These kinds of cleaners can clean vehicle interiors, windows, bathrooms and so on with its necessary accessories.

Steam cleaners are available in a variety of models today that are manufactured by renowned companies. There are some points to check while purchasing a steam cleaner like the boiler capacity, guarantee of the device, user guide and the accessories that come along with it.

The most popular brands of steam cleaners available in the market today are Eureka Atlantis Deluxe, Bissell Little Green Machine, Hoover Steam Vac Plus and Oreck. Most of these brands are available at the various home improvement stores and you just need to make sure that you buy an ideal one that will suit your requirements exactly and falls within your budget.

If you want to Learn more about oreck steam cleaners visit our website ShopAllThings. Now clean your home with pleasure.